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page 214 ---medicine----malaria----quinine production----S. Cristovao---King's retreat---the way to Tijuca

Perhaps this medicine would be more powerful if the bark of young trees were taken in preference, which has hitherto not been the case; the ignorant people employed to gather it having selected very thick and woody pieces, which can be pulled off without any trouble, to the finer bark of the young trees and branches. Another plant, containing a great quantity of bitter, is the Carqueja (Baccharis genestelloides, Lam.),which does not, indeed, grow here, but on the high mountains of Serra da Estrella.

Serra da Estrella, province of Rio de Janeiro

It is very often used by the Brazilians against intermitting fevers, and seems much to resemble, in its component parts, the Eupatorium perfoliatum,* which is frequent in North America. It, however, differs from the pure bitters by the considerable admixture of resinous and aromatic parts.

Another equally interesting excursion that we used to make was to Tijuca, a place about a mile from the city, which was formerly much frequented by

Tijuca forest, Rio de Janeiro

the inhabitants. The way is on the high road, past the royal country-seat of S. Cristovão, which was built after his majesty's arrival, and by improvements in the grounds has been made a very agreeable retreat. The road lies between luxuriant hedges of cactus, lantana, bougainvillia, cordia, tournefortia and mimosa lebbek, above which the aloes shoot up their lofty flowering stems.



page 215 ---Road to Tijuca---

The country is level up to the foot of the mountain; only an isolated verdant conical rock in the vicinity of the royal seat is a picturesque object rising above the variegated gardens and plantations.

Aqueduct seen from Mato-cavallos, suburb of Rio de Janeiro

To the west of the road, a new aqueduct conveys the water of a stream from the mountains into the city. Citizens and peasants, on foot and on horse-back, and frequently two persons mounted on one beast, give great animation to the road, on which the carriages of the rich people can only go as far as S. Cristovão.

The road between Tijuca and Rio de Janeiro, in the distance

It is pleasing to see in this paradise the traces of European industry, diligently cultivated land, and beautiful country-houses. Ascending the verdant slope of the mountain, and between numerous country seats, along a mountain stream which turned several water-mills, we at last reached the summit, where the fatigue of the journey was rewarded with a fine view towards the suburb of S. Cristovão.

Looking from Tijuca forest toward Rio de Janeiro, 2006

The day was drawing to a close when we arrived, and, tired with our walk, we wished to find a lodging for the night. There was indeed a shop on the road, but it afforded only tobacco, rum, biscuits, and Minas cheese, and no accomodation; we were therefore obliged to seek refuge at the home of a Frenchman of our acquaintance, which lay to the side of the road.