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page 87 ---Madeira island---June 5, 1817---navigation---

The wind continuing to be favorable, we soon reached Madeira. On the fifth of June, in the evening, when thin clouds began to overspread the horizon, we saw several birds, among others the Procellaria pelagica, swimming on the surface, which were all indications of the vicinity of land. We therefore shortened sail during the night. At six o'clock the following morning we descried, about six miles south of us, the three desert islands, Ilhas Desertas, belonging to the group of Madeira, rising like mined portals or immense arches, out of the boundless ocean. The most northern of these three bare rocks, which has scarcely any inhabitants but a few seagulls, nor any other vegetation than the dyers' lichen, is the lowest; the middle one, the largest in circumference, and the most southerly one (Bogia), on the other hand, are steeper, and may both be seen at a distance of eight or nine miles.

The channels between these rocks, and between them and Madeira, are safe, in very few places less than sixty fathoms deep, and here and there from two to five hundred. In the summer months, during which the N.E. wind regularly prevails, a southwestern current of the waters is perceived in them. The fog, which had hitherto concealed Madeira, which bore S.W., dispersed as the sun rose higher, and about nine o'clock we clearly distinguished the eastern promontory, Cabo de S. Lourenco; the multiform reddish cliffs rising steeply above each other, extend far into the sea.

Cabo de S. Lourenco, Madeira Island

page 88 ---navigation----Madeira---

Leaving it to the north of us, we were delighted with the prospect of the luxuriant valley of Porto Novo; its verdant slopes rising out of the sea, are adorned with scattered habitations of a dazzling white. The brown or red walls, and steep side of the rugged mountain that traverses the island, form a pleasing contrast with the rich green of the flowery valleys. Nothing can be more enchanting than the prospect of this island, which seems to float like a pleasant garden on the bosom of the ocean.

We soon descried the town of Funchal to the N.W. and the steep Pico da Cruz rising behind it. In the evening, when the frigate was not far from the shore, the colours were hoisted, and a Portuguese boat immediately came from the town to make the usual enquiries.

Pico da Cruz, Madeira Island

A stronger wind arising, which made the anchorage on the very steep rocky bottom still more unsafe and dangerous, the captain thought proper to continue under sail; a boat was therefore put out to land the embassy, and the naturalists, while the frigate remained in the roads during the night. The exposed situation of this harbor, where the ships, during high winds, particularly from the S.E. and S. W., may easily run against the cliffs of the coast, made this precaution necessary. It was not till the following day at noon, when we had already ascended the mountainous part of the island, and were enjoying the fine prospect of the ocean, that the salute of the frigate announced that she had come to an anchor.